To you, surfing is a piece of the puzzle in living a more connected life. You love nature for what it is & you don’t need gadgets or perfect conditions. You want to enjoy nature with all its ups and downs and surfing is a great vehicle for that. You don’t concern yourself with wave counts, but you remember the feeling of the sun on your skin some years ago, the dolphins you saw, the cold rain when you paddled out in warm water. When people see you in the water, it reminds them of what surfing is all about.
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